bindersIf your shelves are overrun with binders and they’re busting at the seams it may be time to rethink your use of binders. Binders have their place, but like so many things, they will serve you better if used within limits. Here’s how:

1. Reserve For Reference.

Binders make sense for items you may actually want to reference from time to time. Pages are easier to read from a binder than if they are stuffed in a file. If you find yourself saving something other than reference in a binder, stop and ask yourself “why?” If it’s something you only need to be able to lay your hands on, but not too often, it makes more sense in a file cabinet. A file is a better use of space and it’s less likely to take up permanent residence than in a binder.

2. Two Inch Spine or Less.

Wide binders with more than a 2 inch spine are a poor use of space.  If a binder is 3”, it holds 2” of paper, whereas a 2” box bottom hanging folder holds 2” of paper. This may not sound like much, but consider the cumulative effect of increasing your file space by a third. Big binders are bulky and awkward to use. Binders with less than a 2” spine, on the other hand, fit in vertical organizer, which provides great structure to keep your binders useable. If you don’t intend to use the binder’s contents, consider filing them.

3. Ignore the 3 Hole Punch Imperative.

Many documents are sent to us with three punched holes, suggesting that we “should” collect these in binders. Again, that’s a waste of space for files you don’t intend to regularly reference. Also, things like bank records and investment statements tend to collect for years, to the point where they compromise the integrity of the binder.  Statements should circulate from active to archive regularly, not get trapped in a binder. And certainly don’t waste time punching your own holes for papers that are best suited to a file cabinet.

Consider the savings and gains by using this approach. You save time and aggravation by accessing binders and pages in smaller binders. You can gain 18’’ of accessible shelf space while only losing 12” of inaccessible file space. You save time transferring old files to more remote archives, accessing sliding bulky folders, and punching holes. Of course if you’re comfortable accessing all your statements online you can ditch the binders AND the files and really save some serious time and space!

fedex-planeWant to make your home more inviting? The dining table is usually a great place to start.  If it’s piled with mail, schoolwork, and crafts then it’s not very welcoming.  To keep your table clear and inviting, it helps to think of it as a runway at the FedEx “Super Hub” at Memphis International Airport.

The most valuable organizing tool is a clear surface for processing. The dining room table may be the best example of this and because it is so valuable, it should never be wasted on storage. There are ALWAYS better alternatives for storage.

Perhaps you agree about the unsightliness of the cluttered dining table, so you store all incoming mail in shelves, bags, or even attractive baskets.  This may keep the table clear, but it doesn’t make you more organized.

Follow the Memphis model. The FedEx airplane doesn’t land and park on the landing strip.  Mail is emptied from it, sorted on the same day, and distributed to many different cities around the world.  The runway is always clear for the next plane because the plan is for processing, NOT STORAGE.

The same plan needs to apply to your dining table.  You don’t need to feel like you must pay your bills the second they come in, but you do need to separate the bills-to-pay from the magazines-to-read and junk mail-to-toss.  Notice how each of those items is attached to an action.  It’s all about keeping the next step in mind.  NONE of these next steps should take place on the table.  It takes seconds to make this simple sort and it gets the mail OFF the table.

To stay organized you need to avoid letting things take up residence on your surfaces.  Circulation prevents accumulation. FedEx has been very successful with this practice and so can you!

shape-toyToys can be one of the hardest things to organize and I think this comes down to three things:
1. We are hung up by convention
2. We expect the same from kids as we do from ourselves and
3. We keep toys too long.
What follows are three toy organizing systems I don’t like, followed by three systems I do like.

Don’t Like: The Toy Box

A traditional toy box looks charming on the stage of “The Nutcracker,” but is not helpful in the 21st Century home. First, it’s a concealer and doesn’t invite use. Second, it’s too small for large toys and too large for toy pieces. Finally, it doesn’t take advantage of vertical space and in the event it can actually close, items that get stacked on top of it prevent access.

Do Like: Dedicated Zones and Shelves

I don’t think you can force kids to organize, but if you’ve got any chance to make it happen, your odds are increased by making it fun. For example, if your son loves big cars and trucks, section off a generous corner of the playroom floor and call it “the garage.” Then an integral part of play time can be driving the trucks into the garage. At least it will be easier for an adult to do than trying to force these things into a toy box. In another example, perhaps your daughter can put her plush toys to bed in a hammock, low enough for her to reach, but high enough to take advantage of some unused vertical space. I also favor simple open shelves over closed boxes. Perhaps an open shelf of toys looks less attractive than a closed box, but an easily accessible shelf is more useable and therefore more attractive than a cluttered floor.

Don’t Like: Baskets and Colorful Bins

In organizing magazines the pretty basket is heavily employed, but in real life I find these baskets to be either empty or full of unused clutter. I find this in the typical playroom too. Colorful bins are no better. What’s the problem? Again, the bins and baskets are concealers. You can’t see what’s inside and in the case of the baskets, they’re difficult to label. Oh I realize you need a system for your child that is not dependant on reading, but let’s face it. More often than not, it’s not your child that will be putting things away.

iris-clear-trolleyDo Like: Clear Plastic Roller Carts

These simple carts are available at office supply stores like Staples and make sense for toys for a lot of different reasons. First, they’re clear and your child can immediately see inside. Second, with the smooth plastic surface it’s easy to apply a label. (Remember who’s going to be doing most of the picking up.) Third, each drawer sets a limit on what can go in there, particularly for toys and games with many small pieces. Fourth, they take advantage of vertical space, but retain accessibility. Fifth, they represent dedicated zones. You could have one for different Lego sets and another for arts and crafts. Finally, the wheels give you flexibility. You could roll the arts and crafts cart from the playroom to the kitchen table, while you prepare dinner. You could keep the carts in front of the shelves and still access the shelves easily by simply rolling the carts away. Keep a rolling cart on the floor of a closet and you not only maximize space, but prevent junk from being indiscriminately tossed on the floor.

Don’t Like: Stacking Boxes

Stacking boxes tell me one thing: you’ve got too many toys. I know this because stacking boxes are for storing things, hiding things away, and leaving things inaccessible. When these things are toys, you’ve got to ask yourself why you are keeping them. If your child still loves these items, consider some of the “do-likes” I mentioned. Otherwise, they shouldn’t clog up the playroom. If it’s a unique Barbie doll in it’s original box, then perhaps it belongs with the other items you are hoping to sell on eBay. If they are outgrown toys that you are saving for your future child then they should be stored more remotely. If, however, your current children and future children have no potential interest in a toy, I have another suggestion.

Do Like: Regular Purging

Most kids I see have way more toys than they can enjoy. The most helpful thing you can do in that case is donate the excess to needy children. This is not only helpful to needy children, but to YOUR children. They can see and access what is most important to them if the less important toys are not in the mix.

A word about original boxes.

If you’re a fan of Antiques Road Show like I am, you have seen toy expert Noel Barrett freak out when a vintage toy has its original box. If you’re thinking you should keep all your child’s toys in their original boxes, just in case, STOP IT! What makes these vintage toys in their original boxes valuable is their rarity and their condition. The first indication that you do NOT have an item worth collecting is if it is sold as a “collectors edition.” But let’s leave that aside and assume you’re going to ignore me. At least, recognize that you are buying Vancouver Olympic Barbie for its collectibility and not for your child to paint tattoos on. Protect it well and keep it out of the playroom. Also, don’t keep the box as the perfect storage container, because that’s not how it’s designed. Product boxes are designed to capture your eye and protect an item in shipping, not for actual usability. What can be useful is to cut a descriptive piece of your box out and place it inside the front of a clear drawer or clear bag that is containing loose pieces. This makes the contents more findable, compelling, and useable.

Bottom Line

Keep it simple. Think in terms of usability not conceal-ability. Don’t expect your kids to suddenly love cleaning up, but make it easy for an adult to do it. If a child sees you quickly sorting items into their simple clearly-defined homes it MAY actually look like fun. It would be like an advanced version of the simple shape toy, shown above. There’s no reason it can’t be fun!

stack_of_books2Jerry Seinfeld once did a routine about keeping a personal library so you can show off and say “look at all I know!” (Sorry, couldn’t find it on YouTube.) My lovely wife is not amused by this and warns me to keep my decluttering paws away from her bookcases. So I do. If you, however, are at a stage where you want to or need to get rid of some unwanted books, here are some helpful options. Unfortunately there’s no single option that is low effort, big money, free shipping, and any condition, so I have broken these options down by their best features.

Best Money, Most Effort: Half.com

Half.com is a division of eBay and works in much the same way. You can post many books at once, but you have to wait for interested buyers one at a time and take care of the shipping one at a time. I have used half.com and have gotten some decent money for my unwanted books. I have found it worth doing as a first pass.  It’s pretty easy to get started.

Less Money, Free Shipping: Cash4books.net

Cash4books.net claims to be the top online book buyer in the world. Online since 2004, Cash4Books™ has purchased over one million used books nationwide. They seem to be a particularly good source for textbooks and newer books. You send them your books’ ISBN numbers, they let you know what they will take, and they provide you a label for shipping and send you a check. I haven’t tried them personally, but it looks pretty easy.

Collectible and Antique Books: abaa.org

If you’d like to sell old and rare books, this is a service recommended by cash4books.net. The Antiquarian Booksellers’ Association of America was founded in 1949 to promote interest in rare books and foster collegial relations.  We maintain the highest standards in the trade; members must meet certain requirements in order to join, showing a minimum of four years in the business of selling books, a knowledge of cataloguing, and a sound financial footing.

Book Barter: bookmooch.com

I learned about this option from a client who loves this service.  BookMooch is a community for exchanging used books.  BookMooch lets you give away books you no longer need in exchange for books you really want. Every time you give someone a book, you earn a point and can get any book you want from anyone else at BookMooch. Once you’ve read a book, you can keep it forever or put it back into BookMooch for someone else, as you wish. There is no cost to join or use this web site: your only cost is mailing your books to others. Learn how to bookmooch.

Easy Donation: your local library

I have to say this option is easier at some libraries than others, so it’s worth checking out your local websites for details. Usually your books are sold to raise money for special programs and needed books. In Stamford, CT you can find out how to donate books at the Ferguson Library.

Easiest Donation: The Salvation Army

The easiest book donation I ever had was with the Salvation Army. They do take books and some locations offer a pick up service, but of course you have to schedule it in advance and be prepared to wait. I once donated 40 boxes of books from a client’s apartment. For the record, the driver informed me that 40 was over the limit on book donations, but it would be OK if we labeled the boxes as something else. I was happy to do so.

No matter what sales option you choose, good condition always yields more money, so if you want to get in the habit of circulating your books more, you should also get in the habit of treating them well. This usually requires a shift in thinking, but it’s a healthy one. Books can represent a heavy burden from the past and relinquishing them can open up new possibilities for your future. (Including new books!)

Do you have a favorite way to circulate unwanted books?

making-snowball_0Well the snow’s finally here in a big way and with it a blank canvas of possibilities and limitations.  I could wax poetic about the many ways this blank canvas relates to organizing, but for this post I’m just going to focus on how the lessons of making a successful snowball relate to the practice of getting successfully organized.

1. The Right Outfit.

Those fuzzy blue mittens are great for your Cookie Monster impression, but for making a big snowball you’ll want gloves that are less sticky.  You’ll be outside for a while so make sure the rest of your outfit is warm and water resistant too.  To get organized make sure you start by outfitting yourself with the right equipment: a clear work surface, large trash bags, and several empty sorting boxes.

2. A Smart Plan.

Give yourself plenty of room to roll your snowball.  If there’s an incline, start at the top of it.  Similarly, when getting organized, give yourself more room than you think you will need to sort things.  Position donation boxes and other exit items near the doorway.

3. Careful Start.

A strong snowball requires a carefully packed solid center and gradual thin layers of accumulated snow.  If you try rushing this in the beginning, it will fall apart.  To get organized, a careful approach to sorting and purging at the beginning will allow your progress to “snowball” later.

4. Teamwork.

Making a big snowball can be big work.  A helping hand can make things even more fun, but it can fall apart if you are not following the same game plan.  Getting organized alone is tough, but it’s a lot easier when you have someone on your side, working toward the same goal.  Get on the same page first and it can actually be fun!

5. Focus Not Force.

If your family heads out to make a snowman and everybody just starts wildly flinging snow, all you will have is a mess of snow and no snowman.  That’s fine if you’ve changed your plan from snowmen to snow angels, but if you really want a snowman, this can lead to an avalanche of tempers.  A good snowball needs a simple plan and the focus to stick to it.  If the focus sticks, so will the snow.   Getting organized requires a focus on making decisions, not on wildly flinging things into unidentified piles.  Getting sorted items into labeled boxes will allow your progress to stick.

About Matt Baier Organizing

Professional Organizer Matt Baier and his team declutter and organize homes and offices in Stamford, New Canaan, Greenwich, Westport, Darien, Norwalk, Fairfield, Westchester County, and New York City.

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