1. Reserve For Reference.

Binders make sense for items you may actually want to reference from time to time. Pages are easier to read from a binder than if they are stuffed in a file. If you find yourself saving something other than reference in a binder, stop and ask yourself “why?” If it’s something you only need to be able to lay your hands on, but not too often, it makes more sense in a file cabinet. A file is a better use of space and it’s less likely to take up permanent residence than in a binder.

2. Two Inch Spine or Less.

Wide binders with more than a 2 inch spine are a poor use of space.  If a binder is 3”, it holds 2” of paper, whereas a 2” box bottom hanging folder holds 2” of paper. This may not sound like much, but consider the cumulative effect of increasing your file space by a third. Big binders are bulky and awkward to use. Binders with less than a 2” spine, on the other hand, fit in vertical organizer, which provides great structure to keep your binders useable. If you don’t intend to use the binder’s contents, consider filing them.

3. Ignore the 3 Hole Punch Imperative.

Many documents are sent to us with three punched holes, suggesting that we “should” collect these in binders. Again, that’s a waste of space for files you don’t intend to regularly reference. Also, things like bank records and investment statements tend to collect for years, to the point where they compromise the integrity of the binder.  Statements should circulate from active to archive regularly, not get trapped in a binder. And certainly don’t waste time punching your own holes for papers that are best suited to a file cabinet.

Consider the savings and gains by using this approach. You save time and aggravation by accessing binders and pages in smaller binders. You can gain 18’’ of accessible shelf space while only losing 12” of inaccessible file space. You save time transferring old files to more remote archives, accessing sliding bulky folders, and punching holes. Of course if you’re comfortable accessing all your statements online you can ditch the binders AND the files and really save some serious time and space!

The most valuable organizing tool is a clear surface for processing. The dining room table may be the best example of this and because it is so valuable, it should never be wasted on storage. There are ALWAYS better alternatives for storage.

Perhaps you agree about the unsightliness of the cluttered dining table, so you store all incoming mail in shelves, bags, or even attractive baskets.  This may keep the table clear, but it doesn’t make you more organized.

Follow the Memphis model. The FedEx airplane doesn’t land and park on the landing strip.  Mail is emptied from it, sorted on the same day, and distributed to many different cities around the world.  The runway is always clear for the next plane because the plan is for processing, NOT STORAGE.

The same plan needs to apply to your dining table.  You don’t need to feel like you must pay your bills the second they come in, but you do need to separate the bills-to-pay from the magazines-to-read and junk mail-to-toss.  Notice how each of those items is attached to an action.  It’s all about keeping the next step in mind.  NONE of these next steps should take place on the table.  It takes seconds to make this simple sort and it gets the mail OFF the table.

To stay organized you need to avoid letting things take up residence on your surfaces.  Circulation prevents accumulation. FedEx has been very successful with this practice and so can you!

Don’t Like: The Toy Box

A traditional toy box looks charming on the stage of “The Nutcracker,” but is not helpful in the 21st Century home. First, it’s a concealer and doesn’t invite use. Second, it’s too small for large toys and too large for toy pieces. Finally, it doesn’t take advantage of vertical space and in the event it can actually close, items that get stacked on top of it prevent access.

Do Like: Dedicated Zones and Shelves

I don’t think you can force kids to organize, but if you’ve got any chance to make it happen, your odds are increased by making it fun. For example, if your son loves big cars and trucks, section off a generous corner of the playroom floor and call it “the garage.” Then an integral part of play time can be driving the trucks into the garage. At least it will be easier for an adult to do than trying to force these things into a toy box. In another example, perhaps your daughter can put her plush toys to bed in a hammock, low enough for her to reach, but high enough to take advantage of some unused vertical space. I also favor simple open shelves over closed boxes. Perhaps an open shelf of toys looks less attractive than a closed box, but an easily accessible shelf is more useable and therefore more attractive than a cluttered floor.

Don’t Like: Baskets and Colorful Bins

In organizing magazines the pretty basket is heavily employed, but in real life I find these baskets to be either empty or full of unused clutter. I find this in the typical playroom too. Colorful bins are no better. What’s the problem? Again, the bins and baskets are concealers. You can’t see what’s inside and in the case of the baskets, they’re difficult to label. Oh I realize you need a system for your child that is not dependant on reading, but let’s face it. More often than not, it’s not your child that will be putting things away.

Do Like: Clear Plastic Roller Carts

These simple carts are available at office supply stores like Staples and make sense for toys for a lot of different reasons. First, they’re clear and your child can immediately see inside. Second, with the smooth plastic surface it’s easy to apply a label. (Remember who’s going to be doing most of the picking up.) Third, each drawer sets a limit on what can go in there, particularly for toys and games with many small pieces. Fourth, they take advantage of vertical space, but retain accessibility. Fifth, they represent dedicated zones. You could have one for different Lego sets and another for arts and crafts. Finally, the wheels give you flexibility. You could roll the arts and crafts cart from the playroom to the kitchen table, while you prepare dinner. You could keep the carts in front of the shelves and still access the shelves easily by simply rolling the carts away. Keep a rolling cart on the floor of a closet and you not only maximize space, but prevent junk from being indiscriminately tossed on the floor.

Don’t Like: Stacking Boxes

Stacking boxes tell me one thing: you’ve got too many toys. I know this because stacking boxes are for storing things, hiding things away, and leaving things inaccessible. When these things are toys, you’ve got to ask yourself why you are keeping them. If your child still loves these items, consider some of the “do-likes” I mentioned. Otherwise, they shouldn’t clog up the playroom. If it’s a unique Barbie doll in it’s original box, then perhaps it belongs with the other items you are hoping to sell on eBay. If they are outgrown toys that you are saving for your future child then they should be stored more remotely. If, however, your current children and future children have no potential interest in a toy, I have another suggestion.

Do Like: Regular Purging

Most kids I see have way more toys than they can enjoy. The most helpful thing you can do in that case is donate the excess to needy children. This is not only helpful to needy children, but to YOUR children. They can see and access what is most important to them if the less important toys are not in the mix.

A word about original boxes.

If you’re a fan of Antiques Road Show like I am, you have seen toy expert Noel Barrett freak out when a vintage toy has its original box. If you’re thinking you should keep all your child’s toys in their original boxes, just in case, STOP IT! What makes these vintage toys in their original boxes valuable is their rarity and their condition. The first indication that you do NOT have an item worth collecting is if it is sold as a “collectors edition.” But let’s leave that aside and assume you’re going to ignore me. At least, recognize that you are buying Vancouver Olympic Barbie for its collectibility and not for your child to paint tattoos on. Protect it well and keep it out of the playroom. Also, don’t keep the box as the perfect storage container, because that’s not how it’s designed. Product boxes are designed to capture your eye and protect an item in shipping, not for actual usability. What can be useful is to cut a descriptive piece of your box out and place it inside the front of a clear drawer or clear bag that is containing loose pieces. This makes the contents more findable, compelling, and useable.

Bottom Line

Keep it simple. Think in terms of usability not conceal-ability. Don’t expect your kids to suddenly love cleaning up, but make it easy for an adult to do it. If a child sees you quickly sorting items into their simple clearly-defined homes it MAY actually look like fun. It would be like an advanced version of the simple shape toy, shown above. There’s no reason it can’t be fun!

Best Money, Most Effort: Half.com

Half.com is a division of eBay and works in much the same way. You can post many books at once, but you have to wait for interested buyers one at a time and take care of the shipping one at a time. I have used half.com and have gotten some decent money for my unwanted books. I have found it worth doing as a first pass.  It’s pretty easy to get started.

Less Money, Free Shipping: Cash4books.net

Cash4books.net claims to be the top online book buyer in the world. Online since 2004, Cash4Books™ has purchased over one million used books nationwide. They seem to be a particularly good source for textbooks and newer books. You send them your books’ ISBN numbers, they let you know what they will take, and they provide you a label for shipping and send you a check. I haven’t tried them personally, but it looks pretty easy.

Collectible and Antique Books: abaa.org

If you’d like to sell old and rare books, this is a service recommended by cash4books.net. The Antiquarian Booksellers’ Association of America was founded in 1949 to promote interest in rare books and foster collegial relations.  We maintain the highest standards in the trade; members must meet certain requirements in order to join, showing a minimum of four years in the business of selling books, a knowledge of cataloguing, and a sound financial footing.

Book Barter: bookmooch.com

I learned about this option from a client who loves this service.  BookMooch is a community for exchanging used books.  BookMooch lets you give away books you no longer need in exchange for books you really want. Every time you give someone a book, you earn a point and can get any book you want from anyone else at BookMooch. Once you’ve read a book, you can keep it forever or put it back into BookMooch for someone else, as you wish. There is no cost to join or use this web site: your only cost is mailing your books to others. Learn how to bookmooch.

Easy Donation: your local library

I have to say this option is easier at some libraries than others, so it’s worth checking out your local websites for details. Usually your books are sold to raise money for special programs and needed books. In Stamford, CT you can find out how to donate books at the Ferguson Library.

Easiest Donation: The Salvation Army

The easiest book donation I ever had was with the Salvation Army. They do take books and some locations offer a pick up service, but of course you have to schedule it in advance and be prepared to wait. I once donated 40 boxes of books from a client’s apartment. For the record, the driver informed me that 40 was over the limit on book donations, but it would be OK if we labeled the boxes as something else. I was happy to do so.

No matter what sales option you choose, good condition always yields more money, so if you want to get in the habit of circulating your books more, you should also get in the habit of treating them well. This usually requires a shift in thinking, but it’s a healthy one. Books can represent a heavy burden from the past and relinquishing them can open up new possibilities for your future. (Including new books!)

Do you have a favorite way to circulate unwanted books?

1. The Right Outfit.

Those fuzzy blue mittens are great for your Cookie Monster impression, but for making a big snowball you’ll want gloves that are less sticky.  You’ll be outside for a while so make sure the rest of your outfit is warm and water resistant too.  To get organized make sure you start by outfitting yourself with the right equipment: a clear work surface, large trash bags, and several empty sorting boxes.

2. A Smart Plan.

Give yourself plenty of room to roll your snowball.  If there’s an incline, start at the top of it.  Similarly, when getting organized, give yourself more room than you think you will need to sort things.  Position donation boxes and other exit items near the doorway.

3. Careful Start.

A strong snowball requires a carefully packed solid center and gradual thin layers of accumulated snow.  If you try rushing this in the beginning, it will fall apart.  To get organized, a careful approach to sorting and purging at the beginning will allow your progress to “snowball” later.

4. Teamwork.

Making a big snowball can be big work.  A helping hand can make things even more fun, but it can fall apart if you are not following the same game plan.  Getting organized alone is tough, but it’s a lot easier when you have someone on your side, working toward the same goal.  Get on the same page first and it can actually be fun!

5. Focus Not Force.

If your family heads out to make a snowman and everybody just starts wildly flinging snow, all you will have is a mess of snow and no snowman.  That’s fine if you’ve changed your plan from snowmen to snow angels, but if you really want a snowman, this can lead to an avalanche of tempers.  A good snowball needs a simple plan and the focus to stick to it.  If the focus sticks, so will the snow.   Getting organized requires a focus on making decisions, not on wildly flinging things into unidentified piles.  Getting sorted items into labeled boxes will allow your progress to stick.

Getting organized always begins with a basic sorting of like with like.  You may get things into boxes and free up some valuable surface area. As a result, you may feel more in control, and you are, but don’t stop there.  You don’t have a system that will keep you organized unless your items are easy to find and access.   So what do you do with these carefully sorted boxes?

The answer is simple: divide and conquer.  But how exactly do you do that?  For each item, ask yourself the following:

Why am I keeping this?

Often when I ask a client this question, he or she thinks this is a challenge to toss the item.  It’s not (necessarily).  When you answer the question WHY you are keeping something it leads to the answer of WHERE it should go.  When you have all your like items sorted, it is much easier to make decisions because you are in a focused mode, but since we keep the same items for different reasons, sorting isn’t enough.

Let’s take the example of video tapes.  Sorting all your video tapes into one area is a great first step because now you are in “video mode,” but now what? Grab any video and ask yourself why you are keeping it.  If it’s your 3 year old’s Elmo video, it goes near the VCR where she will still watch it.  If it’s your TWELVE year old’s Elmo video, it goes in the donation box, because she has outgrown it.  If the next video is also on a dvd, then that video can join Elmo in the donation box.  If the next video is your Hawaiian vacation video, then perhaps it goes with your keepsake box. If the next video is broken (or horrible), it goes in the trash. If the next video has no label on it, then you may need to review it.  DON’T review it now.  Keep going with the others.  Keep asking, why am I keeping this?  Stay focused and break up ALL the videos in this fashion.

You have now broken up the video mountain into manageable molehills.  The active videos go on a shelf where they can be seen and accessed; the donation box advances to the car, and the review box is a simple task.  It’s simple because you can now be strictly in a “video review mode” that will take minutes.

You don’t have to address all these molehills at once, but they are manageable now because you have simply asked “Why am I keeping this?”

Relaxation Dedication.

We spend a third of our lives asleep, so it is appropriate to devote one room to JUST rest.  I know it seems downright counter-cultural to ban the television from the bedroom, (heck, I have one myself!), but it pays to keeps as many non-restful elements out as possible. Computers and workspaces don’t make it easy to switch off. Bright colors, mirrors, and lights from electronic devices, create energy and discourage rest. The more you focus on relaxing in your bedroom, the more you can focus on everything else outside of it.

Laundry Quandary.

If your laundry is littering the floor, you need an easier system. Perhaps you keep your laundry hampers in your closet because they look unattractive next to your bed. There are plenty of attractive hampers to choose from, but none of them are as ugly as clothing on the floor. You’re tired at night. Do yourself a favor and make filling the laundry easy. It doesn’t get any easier than dropping the clothes off your back into an unlidded hamper at arms-length from the bed on which you are sitting. When it’s an easy system, it gets used.

Roving Clothing.

Dresser drawers and closet doors that cannot close, because they are overstuffed, do not promote rest. Same goes for the dry cleaning piled up on a chair. If your clothes are encroaching on your peaceful space, fight back. For starters, it might make sense to circulate the summer clothes out to storage for the season to free up space, but odds are good it’s time for a purge. Don’t be afraid of what’s inside your closet. Exposed to the light of day it becomes vulnerable, like a vampire. Have lots of clear bags ready for donation, spread your clothes out on your bed, and for each article ask three questions:
1. Does it fit?
2. Do I love the way I look and feel in it?
3. Does it need repair before I can wear it?
Isolate the repairs to see how many there are and to see if it’s really worth it and give away the non-fits and non-loves. Now you can hang the dry cleaning, close the closet door, and get some sleep!

One piece of tax advice I hear is “keep everything!” Really? This 2004 receipt for “Beggin Strips” from Petco is going to help me save money on taxes? Unless you run a kennel, this piece of paper is probably not going to help you.

Of course I’m going to advise that you check with your accountant first (even though he or she may be the one who advised you to “keep everything!”), but the more receipts you keep, the more likely you are to lose the ones that really matter. Either the important ones get lost in the excess or the excess gives you a false sense of security.

So how do you know what to keep? Here’s a starter. As with all items that clutter your home, simply ask “why am I keeping this?” A receipt alone may be kept for several different reasons. Here are the best three I have found:

1. Tax purposes.

This is by far the most important reason. I keep a simple file jacket out, subdivided by “credit” and “cash.” The credit receipts may be redundant because the expenses appear on my credit card statements, but it is helpful to have the receipts for cash payments isolated.

2. Items to possibly return.

It’s a good idea to keep receipts for items that you may want to return, but if they have nothing to do with tax purposes, keep them in a separate folder.

3. To demonstrate insurance value.

It may be helpful to arrive at an accurate figure to insure your property if you keep receipts for your more valuable purchases. Keep these in a folder with your insurance policy.

Maybe you’re the diligent type who is good at seeing if your grocery receipts stay within your monthly budget, but if that’s not you, don’t hold on to these receipts in the hopes that you will suddenly become the diligent type. Let them go so that you can focus on what you really do care about.

This has been my approach for years and an important receipt has never gone missing, but seriously, see what your accountant thinks, starting with the receipt for the “Beggin Strips!”

I always know it when I see it. It’s a shopping bag filled with abandoned schoolwork, empty Snapple bottles, an overdue library book, a promotional ice scraper, outdated catalogs, an orphan glove, a pizza-stained atlas, a beanie baby, a sticky sippy cup, and an expired gift certificate. At first glance these items may seem unrelated, but experience tells me that this is a make-it-go-away bag from the car. Busy moms, in particular, will identify with this. You get sick of looking at all that junk in the car and maybe you’ve got five minutes between soccer practice and piano lessons, so you chuck everything into a bag to make-it-go-away, but you don’t actually have the time to distribute the contents, let alone establish a plan to keep these items from coming back. These tips will help.

Trash Removal.

Space is at a premium in the car, so only a small trash bin makes sense, but by all means do establish a dedicated bin, not a multipurpose shopping bag. This bin will fill up fast, so you need a plan for easy emptying, possibly daily. This is a challenge that is not going to go away anytime soon, so if you don’t already have an easily accessible large trashcan in the garage, start one. Frequency merits facility.

Dashboard & Windshield.

Question:  What should go on the dashboard/windshield area?”
Answer:  Nothing.
Anything more than an EZ Pass, GPS, and permit stickers compromises visibility and creates a safety hazard. There are more important things to focus on when you’re driving than the junk flying off your dashboard.

The Trunk.

I am skeptical of a lot of “organizers” because if not used with a purpose they can quickly become clutter traps. In the photo above, you can see my trunk organizer and how I am using it. The contents all fall under the just-in-case category and are therefore tucked away in the back. Also important is the minimalism of the items. For example, it doesn’t make sense to keep enough motor oil for an oil change, but if I happen to be running low on the highway, I’m covered. In this way, I have enough room for an emergency kit, jumper cables, wiper fluid, etc. The ads for trunk organizers show them being used for grocery bags, but I find this unrealistic. To keep shopping bags from tipping I like the flexibility of trunk dividers.

Coupons & Gift Certificates.

You may be wondering why I am talking about coupons in this car post when you have a perfectly good coupon file in your home. If your coupon file really is perfectly good then fine, but in my experience these coupon files are too complicated and largely go unused. My advice is to limit the coupons to only the ones you are really likely to use then keep them in a clear envelope in your car door. That way the next time you find yourself at Bed, Bath, & Beyond, you will have the 20% off coupon with you instead of sitting at home on the dining table. Same thing goes for gift certificates.

Glove Compartment.

The glove compartment is small, so don’t overuse it. Again, multipurpose leads to no purpose. If you don’t give much thought to what goes into the glove compartment, you may find yourself producing a handful of Dunkin Donut napkins instead of a current insurance card.

Seats.

Do you keep forgetting to return your friend’s empty casserole dish or library book? Keeping your seats uncluttered will help your memory. With your car supplies securely stowed in the trunk and your trash circulating out reliably, you stand significantly better odds of emptying your car. The remaining return items will stick out like a sore thumb and demand action. That’s not a guarantee, but it is a guarantee that items-to-return will get lost in a sea of clutter.

What do you do to keep YOUR car organized?

Now don’t get me wrong, if you have items like old client files or CDs that are all the same type of thing, filing alphabetically makes the most sense, but more often than not, items including files are easier to find if saved by category.

The alphabet doesn’t provide helpful limitations and can be downright confusing. For example, do you save your auto insurance policy under “A” for auto, “I” for insurance, “P” for policies, “C” for car, or “F” for Ford? There’s a great old M*A*S*H episode where Hawkeye can’t find the map to the minefield because Radar had it filed under “B” for BOOM!

Filing alphabetically creates unnecessary restrictions. You may have your tax files stuffed into the back of the drawer under “T” which is not convenient this time of year. Filing by category, on the other hand, doesn’t restrict you in this way. You can move the tax category file to front and center, if it makes your life easier.

Filing alphabetically gives you a minimum of 26 tabs to look at. Many go unused, many get repeated. Either way, too many tabs may diffuse your focus and compromise findability. Findability is the whole point. If you file by category, you might be looking at 10 tabs instead of 50. Much easier to absorb.

Unless alphabetizing significantly improves your ability to find things, your organizing energies are generally better spent elsewhere.

I realize there may be much I’m not fully explaining about the file-by-category option, but that will be the subject of another post.